Down
Down
He started in 1995 with the first ascent of the 2,000-meter high Father and Sons Wall with Eli Helmuth in a nonstop ascent lasting 36 hours. The following year he soloed a technical and difficult new route on the nearby NE face of the West Buttress. As of 2024 neither route has been repeated. In 1996 he made the first solo attempt of the Moonflower Buttress on Mt Hunter following the original Mugs Stump start. In 1998 with Steve Swenson the two opened a new route on a 1,400-meter high buttress near the head of the east fork of the Kahiltna Glacier which they named Mascioli’s Pillar. He is the only climber in history to have established three new routes on North America’s highest peak. He has estimated that he has climbed Denali around 25 times as both an alpinist and a mountain guide.
He started in 1995 with the first ascent of the 2,000-meter high Father and Sons Wall with Eli Helmuth in a nonstop ascent lasting 36 hours. The following year he soloed a technical and difficult new route on the nearby NE face of the West Buttress. As of 2024 neither route has been repeated. In 1996 he made the first solo attempt of the Moonflower Buttress on Mt Hunter following the original Mugs Stump start. In 1998 with Steve Swenson the two opened a new route on a 1,400-meter high buttress near the head of the east fork of the Kahiltna Glacier which they named Mascioli’s Pillar. He is the only climber in history to have established three new routes on North America’s highest peak. He has estimated that he has climbed Denali around 25 times as both an alpinist and a mountain guide.
In 2001 with Rolando Garibotti he made the fourth ascent of the Infinite Spur route on Mt Foraker in 25 hours (plus another 20 to basecamp)
Steve established, with various partners, new routes on the Alaska Ranges smaller peaks including the East Face of the Moose’s Tooth (with Mahoney and Gilmore) and Mt Bradley (Twight and Carpenter) and made the first repeat of the 1972 southeast pillar of Mt Dickey (Hollenbaugh).
Steve established, with various partners, new routes on the Alaska Ranges smaller peaks including the East Face of the Moose’s Tooth (with Mahoney and Gilmore) and Mt Bradley (Twight and Carpenter) and made the first repeat of the 1972 southeast pillar of Mt Dickey (Hollenbaugh).
As a mountain guide Steve executed first guided ascents of Peak 11,300 and the Moonflower Buttress of Mt Hunter.
As a mountain guide Steve executed first guided ascents of Peak 11,300 and the Moonflower Buttress of Mt Hunter.
Himalaya/Karakoram
Himalaya/Karakoram
Steve’s first expedition was in 1990 to Nanga Parbat with the Slovenian Alpine Association. Besides celebrating his 20th birthday there he reached 6,200 meters in support of two successful climbers (Frantar and Rozman).
In 1994 he attempted Thalay Sagar but turned around at 6,000m (partner unknown)
In the autumn of 2008, the spring of 2009, and the spring of 2011 House made three expeditions to Nepal to attempt the West Face of [[Makalu]].{{Cite web|title=Steve House|url=http://www.stevehouse.net/climbing-biography.html|access-date=2020-09-21|website=Steve House}}
In the autumn of 2008, the spring of 2009, and the spring of 2011 House made three expeditions to Nepal to attempt the West Face of [[Makalu]].{{Cite web|title=Steve House|url=http://www.stevehouse.net/climbing-biography.html|access-date=2020-09-21|website=Steve House}}
American sport coach, author, entrepreneur, mountaineer and mountain guide
Steve House (born August 4, 1970) American mountain sport coach, author of four books, entrepreneur, retired professional alpinist
and mountain guide, and winner of the 2006 Piolet d’Or.
Early life and education
[edit]
House earned a Bachelor of Science in ecology from The Evergreen State College in 1995.[1]
Reinhold Messner called Steve “The best climber in the world.”
He has said that while he dislikes being called the best, he is happy to be noted aa among the most influential climbers.
Down
He started in 1995 with the first ascent of the 2,000-meter high Father and Sons Wall with Eli Helmuth in a nonstop ascent lasting 36 hours. The following year he soloed a technical and difficult new route on the nearby NE face of the West Buttress. As of 2024 neither route has been repeated. In 1996 he made the first solo attempt of the Moonflower Buttress on Mt Hunter following the original Mugs Stump start. In 1998 with Steve Swenson the two opened a new route on a 1,400-meter high buttress near the head of the east fork of the Kahiltna Glacier which they named Mascioli’s Pillar. He is the only climber in history to have established three new routes on North America’s highest peak. He has estimated that he has climbed Denali around 25 times as both an alpinist and a mountain guide.
In 2001 with Rolando Garibotti he made the fourth ascent of the Infinite Spur route on Mt Foraker in 25 hours (plus another 20 to basecamp)
Steve established, with various partners, new routes on the Alaska Ranges smaller peaks including the East Face of the Moose’s Tooth (with Mahoney and Gilmore) and Mt Bradley (Twight and Carpenter) and made the first repeat of the 1972 southeast pillar of Mt Dickey (Hollenbaugh).
As a mountain guide Steve executed first guided ascents of Peak 11,300 and the Moonflower Buttress of Mt Hunter.
Himalaya/Karakoram
Steve’s first expedition was in 1990 to Nanga Parbat with the Slovenian Alpine Association. Besides celebrating his 20th birthday there he reached 6,200 meters in support of two successful climbers (Frantar and Rozman).
In 1994 he attempted Thalay Sagar but turned around at 6,000m (partner unknown)
In the autumn of 2008, the spring of 2009, and the spring of 2011 House made three expeditions to Nepal to attempt the West Face of Makalu.[2]
On March 25, 2010, while lead climbing on Mount Temple, Steve fell approximately 25 meters. He broke six ribs in multiple places, collapsed his right lung, fractured his pelvis in two places, and fractured several vertebrae in his spine. Barely a year later and after months of rehabilitation, House set off for the Himalayas to climb Makalu, the fifth-highest mountain in the world.[3][4]
He is vocal in his support of “alpine style” climbs, which involve moving quickly with little equipment and leaving no gear on the mountain. When, in 2004, the Russian team won the 14th Piolet d’Or for their ascent of the north face of Jannu, he criticized the team for using months to climb the face while setting up fixed ropes, and for leaving 77 ropes and multiple camps behind on the mountain.[5]
He became a Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes-certified guide since 1999, and the seventh American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) guide to complete the certification.[1] He retired from guiding in 2018. Beginning in 1999 he worked as an ambassador for the technical outdoor clothing company, Patagonia, with input on marketing and product design, development, and testing. In an Instagram post in January 2021 he announced his retirement from all his sponsors. He wrote: “at 50 years old it is time to step aside and make room for a new generation of alpinists, and their vision of alpinism, whatever that may be.”
[6] In 2015 he founded [https://www.uphillathlete.com/ Uphill Athlete.
His book Beyond the Mountain was the 2009 winner of the Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature. In 2015 he and Scott Johnston published Training for the New Alpinism and The New Alpinism Training Log came out in 2017. In 2019 Steve, Scott Johnston, and Kilian Jornet published Training for the Uphill Athlete which has over 1,100 reviews on Amazon with an average user rating of 4.8.
- 2000 Slovak Direct, Mount McKinley, Alaska Range, Alaska with Mark Twight and Scott Backes, a fast climb in 60 hours.[7]
- 2003 The Talkeetna StandardEye Tooth, Alaska Range, Alaska, USA; FA V 5.9 WI5 1000m with Jeff Hollenbaugh[8]
- 2003 Roberts-Rowell-Ward RouteMt. Dickey, Alaska Range, Alaska, USA; second ascent VI 5.9 A2 1675m with Jeff Hollenbaugh[8]
- 2004 Southwest FaceK7, Charakusa Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan (second ascent of the mountain, first ascent of route) (VI 5.10a M6 A2 80 degrees, 2400m), solo. For this ascent he won the People’s Award for the 14th Piolet d’Or.[9]
- 2005 June Taulliraju (5830m), Peru Steve along with Slovenian alpinist Marko Prezelj climbed the Italian Route on Taulliraju. They climbed the route free (first free ascent) in a three-day roundtrip.[10][11]
- 2005 Central Pillar of the Rupal Face(4100m, M5 X, 5.9, WI4), September 1–8, on Nanga Parbat in northern Pakistan with Vince Anderson. Completed in a little over a week (a very short period of time in comparison with many large alpine climbs), the climb won him and Anderson the Piolet d’Or. Steve House’s account was published in Alpinist Magazine-Issue 16in which he describes the ascent as the culmination of “years of a physical and psychological journey.”
- 2007 House-Haley (WI5 M7 1750m), Emperor Face, Mount Robson (3956m), Canadian Rockies, British Columbia, Canada. FA of route with Colin Haley, May 25–27, 2007.[12]
- 2007 K7 West (6858m), Charakusa Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan Fa of Peak with Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj.[13]
- 2008 House-Anderson (WI5+ M8 R/X, 1000m), North Face, Mount Alberta (3619m), Canadian Rockies, Alberta, Canada. FA of route with Vince Anderson, March 26–28, 2008[14]
- ^ a b “Steve House IFMGA Certified Mountain Guide”. North Cascades Mountain Guides. Archived from the original on 7 February 2010. Retrieved 29 March 2018.
- ^ “Steve House”. Steve House. Retrieved 21 September 2020.
- ^ “Air Ranger Steve”. Skyward Mountaineering. 27 March 2010. Archived from the original on 16 July 2011. Retrieved 29 March 2018.
- ^ “Fall Off Mount Temple”. Steve House – Training Blog. 5 September 2010. Archived from the original on 24 July 2011. Retrieved 29 March 2018.
- ^ “14th Piolet d’Or”. Archived from the original on 9 May 2006. Retrieved 29 March 2018.
- ^ “Patagonia Ambassador Steve House”. Patagonia. Archived from the original on 7 April 2016. Retrieved 29 March 2018.
- ^ “Mt McKinley’s Slovak Route by Scott Backes”. The American Alpine Journal 2001 (American Alpine Journal). American Alpine Club: 48. August 2001. ISBN 0930410890. OL 8360193m.
- ^ a b Hollenbaugh, Jeff (2004). John Harlin III (ed.). American Alpine Journal. New York City, New York, USA: American Alpine Club. pp. 201–203. ISBN 0-930410-95-5.
- ^ Hollenbaugh, Jeff (1 December 2004). “CHARAKUSA VALLEY”. Alpinist. Alpinist Magazine. Retrieved 12 February 2008.
- ^ “Cayesh – Alpinist.com”. www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 21 September 2020.
- ^ “AAC Publications – New Routes On Taulliraju and Other Ascents”. publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 21 September 2020.
- ^ Haley, Colin (29 May 2007). “NEW LINE ON MT. ROBSON BY HOUSE, HALEY”. Alpinist. Alpinist Magazine. Retrieved 27 May 2009.
- ^ Bauer, Luke (September 4, 2007). “Prezelj, House, Anderson Tick K7 West”. Alpinist. Alpinist Magazine. Retrieved 12 February 2008.
- ^ Anderson, Vince (1 April 2008). “New House-Anderson Line on Wintry Mt. Alberta”. Alpinist. Alpinist Magazine. Retrieved 17 August 2008.
